OFF THE BEATEN TRACK WITH DON STREET Part Three: The British and US Virgin Islands The BVI In the BVI the first step in finding quiet anchorages is to obtain a copy from Moorings or Sunsail of the special Imray Iolaire chart that shows the places where bareboats are not allowed to anchor. These are likely to be anchorages that are uncrowded and are not littered with mooring balls. Anchorages you might share with, at the most, one other boat include Money Bay on the south coast of Norman Island, numerous ones on the south coast of Peter Island, and Bluff Bay on the south coast of Beef Island. On the south end of Guana Island there is a good anchorage for one boat behind Monkey Point. Take the dinghy ashore, climb across the rocks and you will find a beautiful little sandy beach. It’s inaccessible except by the route you have taken, so a great place to bathe au naturel. Eustatia Sound on the north coast of Virgin Gorda has two seldom-used bays, Deep and Oil Nut, where, unless it is blowing really hard, you can anchor close to leeward of the barrier reef which breaks the swell but not the breeze. Thus you'll have a cool, bug-free anchorage close enough to the reef so you can snorkel from the boat — no need for a dinghy expedition. Anchor bow and stern so that if the wind dies in the evening and the current changes you are not swept onto the reef. On the south coast of Virgin Gorda, South Sound provides an excellent anchorage sheltered in all directions. On the west coast, from mid-April on, when the danger of the northerly ground swell is largely gone, both Savannah Bay and Mahoe Bay pro- vide uncrowded anchorages. West of Virgin Gorda’s Anguilla Point, the western entrance to Gorda Sound is an excellent anchorage — again, from mid-April on. But only use this anchorage from Monday until noontime on Friday as during the week- end a continual stream of powerboats will be using the passage between Mosquito Island and Anguilla Point. The main anchorage in Anegada may be crowded. If so, and you draw six feet or less, proceed westwards and anchor off Neptune’s Treasure. This is usually calmer. The anchorage behind Pomato Point is never crowded. Also, from mid-April on when the danger of a ground swell is negligible, there is an anchorage off the western end of Anegada that guarantees you a mile of so of nearly deserted white sand beach. The ultimate deserted anchorage in the BVI, and possibly in the whole Eastern Caribbean, is the tiny cove on the lee side of Little Tobago, southwest of Jost Van Dyke. The USVI In the US Virgin Islands, despite what some sailors and guide authors say, there are some uncrowded anchorages if one wants to get off the beaten track. On St. John, within the area of the Virgin Islands National Park, just about all the anchorages will be crowded and full of mooring balls that you are required to use. However, on the western side of Leinster Bay, there is a seldom-used anchor- age at Mary’s Creek. Since it is on the western side of the bay there is always a cool breeze, There are six feet of water over the bar at the entrance, and seven to eight eet inside. On the northeast coast of St. John, outside of the National Park area, are two excellent anchorages for the experienced eyeball navigator, New Found and Haulover Bays. Both are suitable for only one boat, so if you get in and anchor you will be alone. On the southeast corner of St. John is Salt Pond Bay, also seldom crowded and with no mooring balls. St. Thomas and its offshore islands also provide some uncrowded anchorages. Buck Island (not to be confused with the Buck Island off St. Croix) has day-trippers but they leave by 1500 hours and do not arrive till 1000 or 1100 hours, so you have a peaceful evening and morning. What more can the sailor want, as in the middle of the day the real sailor is sailing! Lindbergh Bay, near the airport, is slightly rocky and rolly. It is the old story: if there is a white sand beach it is not a good all-weather anchorage because it is the swell that deposits the sand on a beach. The best feature of Lindbergh Bay is the act that the airport is walking distance from the beach, and it’s a short taxi ride rom the airport to one of the hotels on the beach, so it is a convenient place to anchor if doing a crew change. A warning: in periods of heavy weather, even with winds from the east, the swell hooks around Water Island and rolls into the bay. Once the swell caused Jolaire's anchor shackle to break and she ended up high and dry on the beach. Brewers Bay, north of the runway, is another deserted anchorage although the beach may be full of swimmers on weekends. The anchorage in the lee of Saba Island is superb, with good diving on rocks to the west and a nice beach ashore. The wind sweeps across the sand spit between Turtle Dove Cay and Saba Island, guaranteeing you a cool, bug-free anchorage. On week- ends, sailors from St. Thomas visit, but it is deserted during the week. This anchor- age makes a great jumping-off spot when heading west to the Spanish Virgins, or a landfall if coming from the Spanish Virgins to St. Thomas. There are a number of anchorages on the western end and north coast of St. Thomas that are not useable in the winter, when the ground swell is likely to come in, but come late April or early May, they bear investigating. In late spring and sum- mer only, check out Mermaid’s Chair or the anchorage on the southwest corner of West Cay. Then, under power, go between West Cay and St. Thomas and investigate Sandy, Botany, Stumpy, Santa Maria, Hull and Magens Bays. The Frenchtown fish- ermen keep their boats on the south side of St. Thomas in the winter but come sum- mer they move their boats to Hull Bay. The sail from the northern Virgins to St. Croix is about 38 miles on a close or beam reach, depending on the jump-off point. It is a glorious sail and is well worth it. St. Croix bears investigating ashore for a day in a rented car and a good half-day, or perhaps a full day, can be spent exploring the town of Christiansted on foot. Then off to Buck Island, where there are some day-trippers from 1100 to 1500 hours, but the island is yours morning, late afternoon and night. The number of day-charter boats is strictly limited so even during the day the island is not overcrowded. If you want to be completely alone, go inside the barrier reef and work your way eastwards from Teague Bay into Knights or Cotton Garden Bay. Here you will have a beautiful windswept anchorage but no sea as the barrier reef breaks the swell. The only charts detailed enough to do this are the BA chart of St. Croix and the Imray lolaire A 234. Use the Imray Iolaire chart as it is based on an unpublished 1985 NOAA survey plus explorations I made from Joiaire’s dinghy and information sup- plied by experienced local sailors. The BA chart is based on a US Coast and Geodetic survey done 1935. Next month: Off the beaten track in the Spanish Virgins and Puerto Rico. PORT OF ENTRY WALLILABOU ANCHORAGE WALLILABOU BAY HOTEL MOORING FACILITIES WATER, ICE, SHOWERS CARIBEE BATIK - BOUTIQUE VHF Ch 16 & 68 (range limited by the hills) BAR AND RESTAURANT TOURS ARRANGED P.O. Box 851, St. Vincent & the Grenadines, West Indies. Tel: (784) 458-7270 Fax: (784) 457-9917 E-mail: wallanch@vincysurf.com MARIGOT BAY sini Doolittle’s Restaurant CREDIT CARDS ACCEPTED HAPPY HOUR 5-6 Successfully serving you for 45 years with Caribe, French and International cuisine at the most Beautiful Bay in the Caribbean. (Ask Mr. Michener) Feel free to anchor up, NO CHARGE! Call us on Channel (16) to reserve your table, we will then pick you up and return you to your yacht. info@ marigotbeachclub.com / www.marigotdiveresort.com Basil’s Bar Mustique Visitors to Mustique are invited to: BASIL’S BAR AND RESTAURANT: Basil's Bar in Mustique was named one of the World's Ten Best Bars in 1987 by Newsweek and today lives up to that tradition. Recently renovated, the new face of Basil’s Bar in Mustique is all that and more: offering fresh seafood, lobster in season, steaks and the best heelbanger in the Cosibbean, Now equipped wih WIEL, you Can enjoy aanset cocktadls aad catch up on the web. Breakfast service begins at 8:00am. Lumch 11:00am - 6pm, and Dinner 7:30 util late. Come to Basil’s for cocktails anytime and plan to attend the Wednesday Night Jump Up and BBQ. Basil's Bar is home of the only Blues Festival in the Caribbean. The Mustique Blues Festival takes place from January 26 - February 9, 2011. Call (784) 488.8350 or VHE 68. BASILS BOUTIQUE: Fabrics as bright as the sea and as light as aix.. perfect for island joy. Elegant island evening and playful day wear, For women, men and children, plus lots of T-shirts to take home. Basil's Boutique also offers silver and gemstone jewelry. BASILS GREAT GENERAL STORE: There is nothing general about Basil's Great General Store. Bountifully stocked with fine French wines, cheese from Europe, gourmet jams and sauces. Imported cigars and an unusual collection of books not to be missed. Fine foods in Paradise. Call (784) 488-8407. ACROSS FOREVER: Imagine decorating your home with antiques from Bali and India. Across Forever has a magnificent collection of furniture from Asia and beyond, contemporary pieces, home pend fabulous lighting accessories and more. Shipping is easily and efficiently arranged. Call (784) 488-8407. Visitors to St Vincent are invited to: BASILS BAR: Located in Kingstown in an 18th century building named Cobblestone. Air conditioned, you will enjoy cocktails most delightful, the staff most welcoming and the meals are some of the best on the island. Now offering fall catering services. Call (784) 457-2713. AT BASIL'S: Newly opened full service SPA located in Villa across from Young Island. Also At Buiil’s is a.collockion of hestitiful bara huntiuie, contemporany pleoss fiom Atia‘and beyond, said vores Chpeaiis ofa suewe cofise chap births ace Call (784) 456-2602 Visit Basil’s in Mustique or St. Vincent www.basilsbar.com basils@vincysurf.com WE SHIP AROUND THE WORLD!