partner, Ann Louise, and I both >.
love sailing in Venezuela between

Cumana and Puerto La Cruz,
with the area’s plethora of wild
and beautiful anchorages all within a few miles of each
other. This year, however, after five previous visits, we
are noticing a big change. The cruising fraternity seems |

to have abandoned this part of Venezuela altogether.

On our cruise down from Grenada in Indaba we did
not see one other vessel sailing in company with us, at
any time, anywhere. This is unusual, and a bit unnerv-
ing in an area with a reputation for dubious security.

In Los Testigos we were the only yacht moored in the
bay adjacent to the Guarda Costa. In Porlamar, Isla
Margarita, there were a few yachts, but so few com-
pared to last year that it was remarkable. (One busi-
nessman who handles entry and other yacht services in
Porlamar said he is not sure his business can survive.)
And it was the same throughout the formerly popular
cruising grounds of the Golfo de Cariaco and Mochima.
Ours was the ONLY yacht wherever we went.

There were still a few yachts in the well-known mari-
nas and places like Medregal Village. But the few
cruisers who are still in Venezuela seem to have
resigned themselves to being stuck in one place. Many
have adopted a siege mentality. Few venture out to
cruise and most remain in the secure marinas.
Marinas that were brimming full just two years ago
now have more spaces than yachts.

Regular cruising folk in Puerto La Cruz tell us that
they are afraid to go out — unfortunately, probably with
good cause. As of this writing, we are moored in com-
pany with a brave lady whose husband was murdered
on their boat about a year ago when the couple anchored
their yacht off Isla Borracho, in a bay once considered
safe. Despite her courageous decision then to remain on
the yacht based in Venezuela, this stoic individual has
now resigned herself to going back to the USA. She feels
= she is now “always looking over my shoulder”.

 

Oo Above: Indaba alone at anchor — as usual. You can’t complain that Venezuelan anchorages are overcrowded!
a Below: Fishing boats become water taxis at Mochima, a popular weekend spot for locals

This dreadful incident, plus a recent attack on
another well-known local character off the Peninsula
de Paria, and an incident in Carenero harbour at
about the same time, has radically changed everyone’s
opinion regarding the safety of cruising here. Few now
consider it safe to spend a night at open anchor.

Times are very hard in Venezuela. Thieving and vio-
lence are not directed solely towards the cruising com-
munity. Local boaters, including fishermen, have also
been attacked and robbed. Some fishermen have been
attacked for their nets!

The very good deals of the past are mostly gone.
Some prices, in fact, have nearly doubled in two years
and are no different from those, say, in Grenada.

But we still love it here and as a cruising ground,
especially one below the hurricane belt, you cannot find
a better place. There are dolphins waiting to greet you
at the harbour entrance and an abundance of sea life
that is rare in the mid-Caribbean islands these days.

CARIBBEAN COMPASS

 

a

tae

uu The cultural differences are refreshing after a long sea-
2 son of the “same old songs” up-island. There are mar-
fo velous reefs and beaches on the offshore islands and
oO there are very well organized “holiday beaches” with
uu small restaurants and shaded picnic huts. It’s all very
a

clean and well run by the Mochima Parks Authority and
quite popular with the Venezuelans on weekends.
The friendly and helpful officers of the Guarda
Costa, which regularly patrols the area, told me that I
was the first foreign tourist they had met at Chimana
Grande all year. They said I was very welcome in
Venezuela and said they would try to respond immedi-
ately should I ever need their assistance.

—Continued on next page

 

 

 

 

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