FLORIDA GEOLOGICAL SURVEY
Table 2. Assessment of the wave steepness ratio for a selection of expressions
related to Vs.
Expressions Using q)L/(0S r Expressions Using (0S/0L r
hr [(AN) 0j/%] hmn + [(AN) 0%/%]
0.9339 0.7445
[h,, + (AH)] jLQ 0.8843 [hm, + (AH)] st 0.4071
hrr (AH) QL05 0.9047 h, (AH) sI'L 0.5498
h,, + [(UA) L/s] h.r + [(AM) es/*0]
D 0.8567 D 0.3837
h,. (AN) Les h,, (A) 0s/,
D 0.9672 D 0.5478
r = Pearson product-moment correlation coefficient between each expression evaluated using measured force and property element data of Table 1, and measured VS response data of Table 1.
considered in an earlier study, but that only the most successful are presented here. V = 0.025 h,,(AH) L/s (2) Incorporating the preceding considerations, D two equations are presented, the first which includes force elements only, which posits: plotted in Figure 7, wherein all variables are expressed in consistent units. In terms of dimensions, one will note that when all V, = 78.5 h,,,,, (AH) 0)/Q0 (1) dimensional cancellations are made in equations (1) and (2), length only remains. and is plotted in Figure 6. The cubic least The coefficient of 0.025 was determined squares regression coefficient (forced using the same fitting procedure as for through the origin) of 78.5 is in units of m1 equation (1). It is apparent from the figures where the mean range of tide, hmn, and that equation (2) reduces some of the scatter seasonal wave height difference, AH, are in of equation (1). The standard error (Ricker, meters. The standard deviation of the data 1973) of equation (2) in the vertical direction from the equation (1) regression line in the is 6.8 m. It may also be of interest to note vertical direction (Ricker, 1973) is 11.4 m. that the coefficient of equation (1) when The second equation includes the mean expressed relative to the coefficient of swash zone grain size, D, to yield :
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