CONTENTS
Page
SEASONAL VARIATION IN SANDY BEACH SHORELINE POSITION AND BEACH WIDTH
A BSTRA CT .......................................................... 1
INTR O DUCTIO N ........................................................ 1
SEASONAL VARIABILITY ............................................... 2
DATA AND RESULTS .................................................. 3
Data ........................................................ 3
Results ...................................................... 7
DISCUSSION ........................................................ 9
The Single Extreme Event and the Combined Storm Season ............... 9
Beach Sedim ents ............................................... 11
Astronom ical Tides .............................................. 14
APPLICATION OF RESULTS ............................................ 15
General Knowledge ............................................. 16
Seaward Boundary of Public versus Private Ownership .................. 16
Long-Term Shoreline Changes .................................... 17
Project Design and Performance Assessment ......................... 19
CONCLUDING REMARKS ............................................20
ACKNOW LEDGEMENTS ............................................. 20
REFERENCES .....................................................20
LIST OF FIGURES
Figure 1. Relationship between seasonal shoreline variability, V., and mean range
of tide,h . .. .............. .... ................ ... .. .......4
Figure 2. Monthly time series for Torrey Pines Beach, California, for shoreline
variability, V; breaker height, Hb, and wave period, T ..................... 5
Figure 3. Monthly time series for Stinson Beach, California, for shoreline variability,
V; breaker height, Hb, and wave period, T. ............................. 5
Figure 4. Monthly time series for Jupiter Beach, Rlorida, for shoreline variability, V;
breaker height, Hb, and wave period, T. ............................... 6
Figure 5. Monthly time series for Gleneden Beach, Oregon, for shoreline variability,
V; breaker height, Hb, and wave period, T. ............................ 6
Figure 6. Illustration of mathematical fit for equation (1) ...................... 9
Figure 7. Illustration of mathematical fit for equation (2) ...................... 9
Figure 8. Example of the quick response and recovery of the beach to storm wave
activity, Pensacola Beach, Florida, December 1974 .................... 10
Figure 9. Monthly average occurrences of extreme event wave events for the Outer
Banks of North Carolina ......................................... 11
V