CROSSING THE BAR. 35

she sped though, lifted by another huge roller;
downwards we then glided amid the eddying
creamy waters on to the calm surface of the
river, up which the next minute we were gliding
rapidly.

The appearance of the banks on either side was
not attractive. As far as the eye could reach was
one dense jungle of mangrove bushes, and though
we ran on for several miles it in no way improved.
The wind died away as we advanced, and the at-
mosphere became hot and oppressive. I had ex-
pected to see pleasant openings, with neat cottages,
plantations of maize, rice, and other grain, pepper,
palms and palmetos; but instead, a uniform line of
the sombre tinted mangrove alone presented itself,
the trees just too high to prevent our having a
view over them of any more attractive scenery
which might have existed beyond,

I asked our black pilot when we should come
to the town. ‘By by den you see,’ he answered
with a look which denoted that we should in time
witness something worth beholding.

The water was as smooth as glass. Here and
there coveys of birds might be seen skimming
along the surface, while overhead a flight of scarlet