THE COUNTRY. 167 bark begins. The canoe rolls and dips as the gazer leans upon its side and looks down into the sky and branches; indeed a canoe so adapts itself to the motion of the occu- pant that it seems to be part of the man himself, he feels vaguely, half fearfully, that he has no support, that he is floating in these repeated heavens, with infinite space below as well as above. A man who takes the paddle in his hands for the first time, here on the creek, achieves that very rare experience, a new sensation. He understands the exhilaration of a bird's flight, or the buoyant rest of a fish in dim sea-depths; he knows the wonder of the soul without a body, born into the mystery and stillness of death. This, experience cannot come in a row-boat, which is too material, one might almost say too dogmatic; a row-boat, in fact, has all the self- consciousness of civilization, for only civiliza- tion could make a man content to turn his back in the direction of his progress with the assur- ance of safety. His canoe, on the contrary,- and it will be observed that it should be a birch